Friday, June 25, 2010

369 Days to Go - Marble Canyon Dam Site



TL Report:  The kids start a 3 day kayak clinic with Endless River on Saturday to improve their river skills. Let's pray for some non traumatizing wet exits so we can start using spray skirts!! We are planning on bringing a kids kayak with us to GC, but we'll have to see how their skills develop. Even the "flat" water can be squirrelly, and it's important they have a positive experience. I really wish NOC would follow the great example Endless River is setting for community whitewater kids. Way to go Juliet and Ken!

EXCHANGE FOLKS: Next week is the week (Thurs, July 1st) that you need to make South Rim/Phantom Reservations for the trip. Don't forget!!

What the GC Private Boaters Assoc is chatting about this week: I posted a question on the best shuttle service from Flag to the South Rim and visa versa, and a few comments have rolled in, but the info I posted last week is still the most accurate. Someone else posted a feedback request for the pre-made Moenkopi dinner items that I am following. All the feedback has been great on their meals/food pack/organization/portion size so far. There has also been discussion of the Flagstaff/Schultz Fire which has been delaying takeouts from Pearce Ferry and Diamond Creek. See photos of the fire in yesterday's post. The wilderness is so beautiful around Flag, a fire of this magnitude makes me really sad, especially as they think it's either arson or someone left a fire pit burning. Either way, it's man made, and now, man-devastated.



Mileage this week: River Mile 38-40: Marble Canyon is the site of one of the last great proposed dam projects on the Colorado. Proposed and investigated in the early 1950s, the proposal met substantial opposition, notably from the Sierra Club (see history below). The proposed dam was abandoned in 1968. Exploratory holes, which were drilled in the Redwall Limestone of the canyon walls in an early phase of the abortive project, can still be seen at Mile 39.2

Marble Canyon marks the western boundary of the Navajo Nation. In 1975, the former Marble Canyon National Monument, which followed the Colorado River northeast from the Grand Canyon to Lee's Ferry, was made part of Grand Canyon National Park, forever protecting this beautiful canyon from being dammed.


Mile 39.2 (right) the exact site of the proposed dam.


Dam adit site on river left. An adit is a horizontal shaft used to access mines or in this case, drilled to assess for dam viability in the rock. These adit sites are still visible, forever reminding us of what could have been lost.










GC History: David R. Brower (1912-2000) Brower was the first director of the Sierra Club. He played a major role in limiting the creation of dams on free flowing rivers in the US.  In1954, in the battle to preserve the Upper Colorado River through Dinosaur Nat'l Park (see LA Times cartoon, right), Bower and the Sierra Club supported a compromise dam which would be built in lesser known Glen Canyon. The new Glen Canyon dam created Lake Powell, which flooded a vast canyon landscape, and thousands of years of indigenous culture and natural history under 540 ft of water. In a 2002 interview, Brower said his organization's support for Glen Canyon Dam, in return for the bureau passing up on other dams, was his greatest failure. As a result he worked diligently to protect what was left of the Colorado River, successfully launching campaigns to stop the damming of Marble Canyon and Grand Canyon as a whole. Widely considered one of the environmental leaders with the greatest global impact,  David Brower was nominated three times for the Nobel Peace Prize.



Here's what the Sierra Club said of Glen Canyon Dam in 2000:

"In an act of callous disregard for the natural world that was unfortunately characteristic of the century just past, the Bureau of Reclamation erected a dam and drowned the glory of Glen Canyon— its arches, its Native American ruins, its rare and precious animals and plants, its fantastic sandstone architecture, and the swift serenity of its rapids-free river a hundred fathoms deep. The vision of the canyon that was, and that could be again, burns in our minds."

Equipment/Camp Check: For all you non river folks here's the scoop on carbiners. You want basic "biners" to clip on your stuff (ammo can, hat straps, waterproof bags) to the raft rigging. The biners to the right of the picture above are locking gate biners, you don't need these, only the regular ones on the left. Don't bother with the small key chain biners, get the normal size like these from REI. To distinguish your biners from your friends, try using duct tape (right). You are going to need about 3 each.

Recommended Reading: Edward Abbey's Desert Solitaire, "the noted author's most enduring nonfiction work, is an account of Abbey's seasons as a ranger at Arches National Park outside Moab, Utah. Abbey reflects on the nature of the Colorado Plateau desert, on the condition of our remaining wilderness, and on the future of a civilization that cannot reconcile itself to living in the natural world. He also recounts adventures with scorpions and snakes, obstinate tourists and entrenched bureaucrats, and, most powerful of all, with his own mortality. Abbey's account of getting stranded in a rock pool down a side branch of the Grand Canyon is at once hilarious and terrifying."

Next Deadline: $500 per person is due September 1st. If your trip status changes at anytime (ie, need to do a half instead of a whole trip), please let me know as soon as possible so we can fill your ½ space. This will lower your cost.

Comments, questions, concerns? Email me and I’ll include it in the next post. The comment link isn’t working correctly.

Friday, June 18, 2010

376 Days to Go - Bridge of Sighs


TL Report: It's been a great Birthday Week. I got a new Remix (below)  from Bill for the Canyon and I love it. It's royal blue which Bill kept complaining wouldn't stand out in the Canyon pictures but I told him it matched my eyes and that's all that mattered. :-) Eight of the sixteen folks in the GC tribe will be here on Friday (today) to celebrate my impending old age with a crawfish boil. (Elaine, you should have come!) Eve is also here for the week, so I am keeping the blog short and sweet this week.
Flagstaff to the South Rim and visa versa shuttle info: Arizonashuttles runs shuttles 3 x a day from Flag to the South Rim and from the South Rim to Flag. The cost is $24 each way with advanced reservations. Be sure to synch up your air travel with the shuttle before buying tickets. There is an puddle jumper airline service you can charter from Flag to the South Rim mountaingoatairtours.com. They will take up to 5 folks for the same price.

Mileage this week: River Mile 36-37. At river mile 36 we pass the Bridge of Sighs (below), a Redwall natural bridge. It is briefly visible 150 feet or so up a small side canyon on river right.

Thirtysix Mile Rapid at 36.3 is a read and run rapid. Speaking of rapids, they will be few and far between from here to Kwagunt Rapid, 20 miles downstream.


Next Deadline: $500 per person is due September 1st. If your trip status changes at anytime (ie, need to do a half instead of a whole trip), please let me know as soon as possible so we can fill your ½ space. This will lower your cost.

Comments, questions, concerns? Email me and I’ll include it in the next post. The comment link isn’t working correctly.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

383 Days to Go - Redwall Cavern


TL Report: Woo Hoo, got to confirm my good friend and fellow Egleston RN, Amy, on the first half of the trip. It's always fun to introduce someone to wilderness river travel, especially on the Canyon. She'll be the nurse on the trip, so if you have any problems, concerns, aches or pains (or even just want your feet rubbed), she's your girl. Oh, and she'd love to hear all about your medical history, right down to the nitty gritty ingrown toe nail stuff, so feel free to grab her after dinner and share that with her too.


Here is a NPS map of the South Rim and it's associated lodging. If you are planning on calling for lodging July 1st this may help you decide where to stay. The trailhead to Bright Angel is a little hard to see, but it's just to the left of the Kolb Studio. I'll cover shuttle info to and from Flag - South Rim next week.

What the GC Private Boaters Assoc is chatting about this week: Good lord, everyone is still ticked about firewood season being limited. Thats about it.



Mileage this week: River Mile 33-35. At river mile 32.2 We have the Redwall Cavern Dam Site. A tramway cable was constructed in 1951 from the top of the Redwall to the east rim, 2,500 feet overhead. Imagine this beautiful place underwater, with the water backed all the way to Lee’s Ferry and you get the picture.









Redwall Cavern (below), at river mile 33.3 on river left, is one of my favorite places on the river. It’s definitely a great place to have lunch, play Frisbee, goof off and relax. The high water in 1957 filled this cavern when the Colorado was flowing over 120.000 cfs.




I like the MOENKOPI "people" above. This is one of the photos our outfitter, Moenkopi Riverworks, uses on their website. The photo on the left is from inside Redwall Cavern looking out.



Nautiloid Canyon at river mile 35 on river left is a great side canyon hike with cool nautilus fossils in the floor of the drainage. This side canyon also offers shade in the summer. There's a bit of a climb to enter this canyon (bottom, left) but it's well worth it. The right pix is looking downstream from the mouth of Nautiloid. The river is running green in this pix but since we will be there in July (Monsoon), it will probably run brown.



Check out the Nautilus below.



GC History: (about Redwall Cavern) August 8, 1969: The water sweeps rapidly in this elbow of river, and has cut it's way under the rock, excavating a vast half-circular chamber, which, if utilized for a theater, would give seating to 50,000 people.  - The Powell Report





Equipment/Camp Check: Shoes. Should you Teva (left), Chaco (middle) or perhaps Keen (right)? It's up to you but here's the deal on shoes for the trip. You need TWO sets of broken in river shoes. River shoes consist of something that straps to your foot securely (in case of a swim) and has a good climbing tread (side canyon scrambling). We Hesters are not buying Tevas anymore as Bill has had two sets of soles delaminate in the last year. I am going for a new pair of Keens and my trusty 20 year old pair of Chacos. You may or may not want a pair of sneakers for camp/side hiking/Phantom exchange, that's up to you. You can easily wear your second pair of river shoes with clean socks in camp for Tolio-free feet. I feel the need to stress that any shoes need to be broken in. Blisters on the Canyon basically, well, suck.You need two pairs because if you lose one in a flip/swim (or if the scorpions carry them away in the night), the nearest store is back in Flagstaff :-).


Next Deadline: $500 per person is due September 1st. If your trip status changes at anytime (ie, need to do a half instead of a whole trip), please let me know as soon as possible so we can fill your ½ space. This will lower your cost.

Comments, questions, concerns? Email me and I’ll include it in the next post. The comment link isn’t working correctly.

Friday, June 4, 2010

more Vasey's photos I just couldn't pass up

390 Days to Go - Stanton's Cave & Vasey's Paradise


TL Report: Just a reminder to Exchange folks that you will need to make reservations with Xanterra (the concessioner for GC) for hotel rooms July 1, 2010. If you are hiking in, make reservations for July 4th, if you are hiking out, make reservations for July 5th. Reservations are fully refundable within 48 hrs of arrival. If you are camping, you don't make reservations until 6 months out. Even if you aren't confirmed on this trip (AMY) but hoping to go OR if you are confirmed for a full trip, but are considering a half (YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE), make reservations July 1st. As July 4-5 is during a holiday week, there will be no chance in the future for reservations if your trip status changes. If you need to save money for this, consider yourself warned.

Xanterra rates and policies
 Xanterra refund info


What the GC Private Boaters Assoc is chatting about this week: Here's a link of comedian talking about her GC trip that a forum member posted. Conversation also centered on irrigation boots. Sounds odd, but alot of boatmen use them for rigging and non rapid days to keep their feet clean and dry (see Tolio discussion below).



Mileage this week: River Mile 30-32: We are heading into one of the most beautiful stretches of the Colorado.  The Roaring Twenties are behind us, and the river chills out in this section, but the Canyon itself starts to really shine. There is ALOT to do in these next few miles. We cross the Fence Fault spring complex at river mile 30.5. The faulting here has numerous springs that are visible on River Left.  This is a good time to to remind folks that no soap is allowed in springs or side canyon streams no matter now tempting a shower they might provide! At river mile we come to Stanton's Cave (below).



Stanton's Cave (above, left) is located at river mile 31.8, between South Canyon and Vasey's Paradise. The cave is about 400 feet deep and was used by the Stanton river party to cache their supplies after abandoning their first 1889 expedition. The Stanton expedition was the first to follow the Powell Expedition and the purpose of it was to search for a rail route through the Grand Canyon. This cave was also used by the people of the Desert Culture and was found to contain split twig figurines (right) and other artifacts that have been carbon-dated to 4,000 years old. Due to the cultural significance associated with this cave, the entrance is gated.

Just beyond Stanton's Cave, a stream of water cascades down the limestone cliff on river right through a jumble of greenery, and into the river. This is beautiful Vasey's Paradise. On his historic 1869 expedition through GC, Powell named it in honor of his friend and noted botanist, Dr. George Vasey. We will definitely resupply our clean water here and do a bit of exploring. However, beware of the poison ivy, which grows in abundance.
GC History: August 9, 1869 - "The river turns sharply to the east and seems inclosed (sic) by a wall set with a million brilliant gems. On coming nearer we find fountains bursting from the rock high overhead, and the spray in the sunshine form the gems which bedeck the wall. The rocks are covered with mosses and ferns and many beautiful flowering plants. We name it Vasey's Paradise, in honor of the botanist who traveled with us last year."         - The Powell Report




Equipment/Camp Check: The dreaded TOLIO. The occurrence of jacked and cracked  toes/heels. Tolio is a portmanteaux of "toe" and "polio." Very appropriate! Tolio results in painful feet and is usually the result of poor foot hygiene. This can seriously affect your ability to hike. There are a lot of supposed causes (bacterial, viral, pH, hot/cold, river water, the yeast-ies, etc) but no studies have been able to identify a definitive culprit. Most canyoneers agree, however, that taking care of your feet prevents occurences of tolio. It is important to wash and dry your feet in camp, every night. You also should think of applying a good anti-fungal agent and a moisturizer with clean socks, every night.Conventional wisdom on the GC forum states that one way to limit incidences of tolio is to use a pumice stone to remove all calluses from your feet starting two weeks before you arrive in the canyon. Fewer calluses equals fewer cracks. As someone who has suffered with painful cracked heels both trips down the canyon, I plan on a few pedicures before I go.

Next Deadline: $500 per person is due September 1st. If your trip status changes at anytime (ie, need to do a half instead of a whole trip), please let me know as soon as possible so we can fill your ½ space. This will lower your cost.

Comments, questions, concerns? If the commit link is working, have at it, otherwise, email me and I’ll include it in the next post.